Et voilà after many years of preconceptions, delaying a visit to this corner of the Alps, the compulsory passage has come. Then you know why besides all the interesting Chamonix buzz, the expensive cable cars and trams, the performing rescue and huts replenishing helicopters, the flying planes – which always bring a scale dimension to the landscape –, the crowds; this still remains the international capital of Alpinism. History, extensive alpine morphology, excellent granite, all terrain reference climbs and nice hikes were some of the elements to be discovered. Felt good to be in the mountains after a rest period at sea level.
It wasn’t an easy place to blend in at first, took its time to understand the logistics for the high climbs – where transports timetable, money, acclimatisation and activity schedule play a major role. After all we got to learn it, made our way around along the usual lines, play and stay motivated to live a bit more of such grand spot; big meeting and melting pot with some transient friends (Mário, Roxo, Vero, Isabel, Nastja, Caroline, Daniel, Giovani, Spini, Jesse, Samuel, Argyro, Antoine…) and, not a bad place to ground for a while: Cham!
Boom! Arête Midi Plan to access day one rock climbing in the massif.
Starting to climb parallel – this flake was calling loud – to the Voie Rébuffat 120m / D+ (1956), Éperon des Cosmiques. PH.Mário Inocêncio
Mário going half creative, half regular pitch; nice and easy.
It got a bit busy and slow so we just waited and enjoyed a crazy fast, welcoming altitude (3842m) shot!
View from our Gaillands parking squat – the north side of Mont-Blanc and the Bossons glacier.
Montenvers station and Mer de Glace.
On our way to Envers; Mario and, an always shifting lateral moraine of the Mer de Glace.
Campsite with a view over the Leschaux (top) and Géant glaciers’ junction.
Cold mountain water for deep cleaning and reinvigoration; dirtbaggin’ fine style!
A bit of training at Pierre d’Orthaz; one boulder and all good lines. PH.Helenita
Waking up at Combe Maudit; Gran Capucin and our route for the day: Voyage Selon Gulliver ED+ / 450m (Piola-Steiner 1982).Yeahpa!
So it starts; pitch 2 (Piola grades!). PH.Mário Inocêncio
Trident du Tacul, Mário and pitch 3.
Begining of the famous off-balance dulfer; pitch 7.
More perfectly sculptured alpine granite and varied climbing; pitch 11. PH.Mário Inocêncio
Top of Gran Capucin (3838m) and, time to go down with the last light!
Happy and back in the tent.
Chillin’ at the Gaillands. Tchau Dji, valeu!
Day walk to Couvercle; Hélène and all of the Aiguilles de Chamonix.
The Old hut, the Grandes Jorasses and the new CAF.
Para as famílias e amigos, abraços e beijinhos.
Morning at the base of a rocks spitting Petit Dru; not nice…
Traffic for the Mer de Glace!
Pitch 5 of Dracula ED / 330m, Trélaporte, Tour Rouge (2899m). PH.Samuel
First pitch of Au Nom de la Rose ED / 340m, 1ére Pointe de Nantillons (2921m). PH.Samuel
7th Pitch of the same route.
Abseiling from another spire top.
Aiguille Verte (4122m) and the Chapoua glacier.
Another wide rimaya to be overtaken…fun!
The same one as viewed from the first belay…jump! PH.Samuel
Pitch 11 of Tout va Mal ED- /500m, Aiguille du Roc (3409m). PH. Samuel
Dent du Géant (4013m).
Envers des Aiguilles.
Pitch 1 of Retour à la montagne ED+ / 190m, Tour Verte (2760m).
Samu off-the-belay in the 2nd pitch of the same route.
And yet another crack, 2nd pitch of Mélissa, métisse d’Ibiza ED+ / 90m, little Yosemite, 1ère Pointe des Nantillons.
Promenade à Bossons.
Daniel finding the holds of a bouldery Pitch 8 on Super Dupont ED+ / 220m, Aiguille du Midi (3842m).
Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) as seen from our late – quiet – afternoon climb in the Aiguille du Midi.
Overnight at the Godefroy Perroux shack – the Grandes Jorrasses and an almost full moon.
Back in the Gran Capucin, this time to belay Daniel and check what’s on in the Voie Petit ABO / 450m.
Here he goes on the hardest one (p5).
NOT this time; Daniel Jung will maybe get back!
Some light projections to entertain the glacier traverse…
…more distractions…this time maths!
Home sweet home – speciality, Les Crepes -, and rencounter with Caroline North (in the photo with Hélène) and Nastja Davidova.
Catch you soon!