Massif du Mont-Blanc / Rendez Vous


Et voilà after many years of preconceptions, delaying a visit to this corner of the Alps, the compulsory passage has come. Then you know why besides all the interesting Chamonix buzz, the expensive cable cars and trams, the performing rescue and huts replenishing helicopters, the flying planes – which always bring a scale dimension to the landscape –, the crowds; this still remains the international capital of Alpinism. History, extensive alpine morphology, excellent granite, all terrain reference climbs and nice hikes were some of the elements to be discovered. Felt good to be in the mountains after a rest period at sea level.

It wasn’t an easy place to blend in at first, took its time to understand the logistics for the high climbs – where transports timetable, money, acclimatisation and activity schedule play a major role. After all we got to learn it, made our way around along the usual lines, play and stay motivated to live a bit more of such grand spot; big meeting and melting pot with some transient friends (Mário, Roxo, Vero, Isabel, Nastja, Caroline, Daniel, Giovani, Spini, Jesse, Samuel, Argyro, Antoine…) and, not a bad place to ground for a while: Cham!

Boom! Ârete Midi Plan to start the first climbing day in the massif.

Boom! Arête Midi Plan to access day one rock climbing in the massif.

Starting to climb parallel - this flake was calling loud - to the Voie Rébuffat 120m D+ (1956), Éperon des Cosmiques. PH.Mário Inocêncio

Starting to climb parallel – this flake was calling loud – to the Voie Rébuffat 120m / D+ (1956), Éperon des Cosmiques. PH.Mário Inocêncio

Mário going haf creative, half regular pitch; nice and easy 6a.

Mário going half creative, half regular pitch; nice and easy.

It got a bit busy and slow so we just waited and enjoy a crazy altitude shot!

It got a bit busy and slow so we just waited and enjoyed a crazy fast, welcoming altitude (3842m) shot!

Everyday view from the Gaillands parking lot.

 View from our Gaillands parking squat – the north side of Mont-Blanc and the Bossons glacier.

Montenvers station and Mer de Glace.

Montenvers station and Mer de Glace.

On our way to Envers; Mario and the always shifting lateral moraine of the Mer de Glace.

On our way to Envers; Mario and, an always shifting lateral moraine of the Mer de Glace.

Campsite with big view over the Leschaux (top) and Géant glaciers' junction.

Campsite with a view over the Leschaux (top) and Géant glaciers’ junction.

Early dawn call...

Sunrise…

Dirtbaggin' fine style!

Cold mountain water for deep cleaning and reinvigoration; dirtbaggin’ fine style!

A bit of training in Pierre d'Orthaz; one boulder and all good lines. PH.Helenita

A bit of training at Pierre d’Orthaz; one boulder and all good lines. PH.Helenita

Waking up at Combe Maudit; Gran Capucin and our day route just in front: Voyage Selon Gulliver ED+ 450m. Yeahpa!

Waking up at Combe Maudit; Gran Capucin and our route for the day: Voyage Selon Gulliver ED+ / 450m (Piola-Steiner 1982).Yeahpa!

So it starts; pitch 2, 6a Piola style!

So it starts; pitch 2 (Piola grades!). PH.Mário Inocêncio

Pitch 3, 6b+ and la

Trident du Tacul, Mário and pitch 3.

Begining of the famous off balance dulfer (pitch 7, 7a+)

Begining of the famous off-balance dulfer; pitch 7.

Perfect sea o sculptured and varied granite; pitch 11, 6c.

More perfectly sculptured alpine granite and varied climbing; pitch 11. PH.Mário Inocêncio

Top of Gran Capucin! :)

Top of Gran Capucin (3838m) and, time to go down with the last light!

Happy and back to the tent.

Happy and back in the tent.

Chillin' at the Gaillands. Tchau Dji, valeu!

Chillin’ at the Gaillands. Tchau Dji, valeu!

Day walk to Couvercle; Hélène and all the Aiguilles de Chamonix.

Day walk to Couvercle; Hélène and all of the Aiguilles de Chamonix.

The Old hut, the Grandes Jorasses and the new CAF.

The Old hut, the Grandes Jorasses and the new CAF.

P'ra família e amigos!

Para as famílias e amigos, abraços e beijinhos.

Early morning at the base of a rocks spitting Petit Dru; not nice!

Morning at the base of a rocks spitting Petit Dru; not nice…

Traffic...

Traffic for the Mer de Glace!

Approaching time.

Approaching time.

Pitch 5 (6b) of Dracula ED 330m, Trélaporte, Tour Rouge (2899m).

Pitch 5 of Dracula ED / 330m, Trélaporte, Tour Rouge (2899m). PH.Samuel

First pitch (6b+) of Au Nom de la Rose ED / 340m, 1ére Pointe de Nantillons (2921m).

First pitch of Au Nom de la Rose ED / 340m, 1ére Pointe de Nantillons (2921m). PH.Samuel

7th Pitch (6c+) of the same route.

7th Pitch of the same route.

Abseiling from another spire top.

Abseiling from another spire top.

Aiguille Verte (4122m).

Aiguille Verte (4122m) and the Chapoua glacier.

Another wide rimaya to be overtaken...Fun!

Another wide rimaya to be overtaken…fun!

The same one viewed from the first belay...jump!

The same one as viewed from the first belay…jump! PH.Samuel

Pitch 11 (5c) Tout va Mal ED- /500m, Aiguille du Roc (3409m)

Pitch 11 of Tout va Mal ED- /500m, Aiguille du Roc (3409m). PH. Samuel

Dent du Géant (4013m).

Dent du Géant (4013m).

Envers des Aiguilles.

Envers des Aiguilles.

Pitch 1 (7b) of Retour à la montagne ED+ / 190m, Tour Verte (2760m).

Pitch 1 of Retour à la montagne ED+ / 190m, Tour Verte (2760m).

Samu off the belay in the 2nd pitch (7a+) of the same route.

Samu off-the-belay in the 2nd pitch of the same route.

Safety tools.

Safety tools.

And yet another crack, 2nd pitch (7a) of Mélissa, métisse d'Ibiza ED+ 90m.

And yet another crack, 2nd pitch of Mélissa, métisse d’Ibiza ED+ / 90m, little Yosemite, 1ère Pointe des Nantillons.

Promenade à Bossons.

Promenade à Bossons.

Pitch 8 (7b) of Super Dupont ED+ / 220m, Aiguille du Midi (3842m).

Daniel finding the holds of a bouldery Pitch 8 on Super Dupont ED+ / 220m, Aiguille du Midi (3842m).

Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) as seen from our late - quiet - afternoon climb in the Aiguille du Midi.

Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) as seen from our late – quiet – afternoon climb in the Aiguille du Midi.

Overnight at the Godefroy Perroux shack.

Overnight at the Godefroy Perroux shack – the Grandes Jorrasses and an almost full moon.

Back in the Gran Capucin, this time to belay Daniel and check what's out in the Voie Petit ABO / 450m.

Back in the Gran Capucin, this time to belay Daniel and check what’s on in the Voie Petit ABO / 450m.

Here he goes, pitch 5 (8b).

Here he goes on the hardest one (p5).

NOT this time; Insect man will probable get back! :)

NOT this time; Daniel Jung will maybe get back!

Some light projection to entertain the glacier traverse.

Some light projections to entertain the glacier traverse…

more distractions...this time maths :) ...

…more distractions…this time maths!

Home speciality - Crepes - and rencounter with Nastja and Caroline (in the photo with Hélène).

Home sweet home – speciality, Les Crepes -, and rencounter with Caroline North (in the photo with Hélène) and Nastja Davidova.

Hit the road Daniel.

Catch you soon!

Melt away...

Melt away…

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4 comments

  1. Ah Dji! Grande reeport! valeu mesmo.
    As fotos e os coments fazem jus ao ambiente que se viveu no Cham! Venha outra!
    Abraço e beijinho!
    Boa sorte para o curso

  2. Cuca maquinón!!!! que tal estais? que fotos más guapas quedaron, espero que os vaya todo muy bien, haber si nos vemos, un abrazo muy fuerte y que se dé bien el curso en Catalunya, deuuu…

  3. Hey Cuquets, pelas fotos percebe-se que essa trip foi à maneira! Tenho de me juntar a vocês na próxima!! Keep up, Abr e bjs à Helen!
    BOOM 3>

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