After one week or so of Val Masino wandering, discovering and enjoying the variety of styles that can be found (cool balancing across slabby, rough coarse granite as well as featured overhangs); going from bouldering boulders to sport or trad climb boulders – Sasso Remenno being the biggest erratic one of Europe –, I was already feeling like going for the seeping but now drying walls.
To work steadily can be a life philosophy, a climbing life motto or – as it meant to Simone Pedeferri, L.Martinelli and L.Lanfranchi – a route opening tale. In the former words, it took ten years to finish the project and a certain level of resignation to abandon an initial idea and winter attempt (he smiles). Result, what was there to be climbed with self protection regardless the weather you feel like doing it; an awesome route that commits – over 8 pitches – on diagonally traversing dihedrals, rightwards limited by sheer verticality…
‘Carlos, piacere! (…)’
‘Do you want to do Lavorare con Lentezza? (…) my friends have done it (…) I’m now off with a Portuguese!’ (Smiles)
As I felt his determination and after a quick look at the guidebook, I thought I would be well introduced to Val di Mello; and so it was.
Sasso – Boulder
Sassisti – To climb boulders