Lavorare con Lentezza


After one week or so of Val Masino wandering, discovering and enjoying the variety of styles that can be found (cool balancing across slabby, rough coarse granite as well as featured overhangs); going from bouldering boulders to sport or trad climb boulders – Sasso Remenno being the biggest erratic one of Europe –, I was already feeling like going for the seeping but now drying walls.

To work steadily can be a life philosophy, a climbing life motto or – as it meant to Simone Pedeferri, L.Martinelli and L.Lanfranchi – a route opening tale. In the former words, it took ten years to finish the project and a certain level of resignation to abandon an initial idea and winter attempt (he smiles). Result, what was there to be climbed with self protection regardless the weather you feel like doing it; an awesome route that commits – over 8 pitches – on diagonally traversing dihedrals, rightwards limited by sheer verticality…

‘Andrea’.

‘Carlos, piacere! (…)’

‘Do you want to do Lavorare con Lentezza? (…) my friends have done it (…) I’m now off with a Portuguese!’ (Smiles)

As I felt his determination and after a quick look at the guidebook, I thought I would be well introduced to Val di Mello; and so it was.

Lombardy dialect:

Sasso – Boulder

Sassisti – To climb boulders

A Silver fir (Abies Alba) was our reference for the route start.

Lavorare con Lentezza 250m 7b, Precipizio degli Asteroid. Andrea cleaning the 3rd pitch, 7b: first an overhanged finger cracked dihedral, roof moves with final offwidth to slab. Nice!

P5(6c+)+P6(6b+)= 50m of more dihedral fun.

Andrea Migliano at work.

Views over Val di Mello and the Monte Disgrazia (3678m) chain.

Advertisements
Categories: UncategorizedTags: , ,

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: